Restaurants Need to Stick to the Recipe
The first time I ate the smoked-eel sandwich at Quo Vadis, I was alone and new to Soho.
The dish features a sharp slap of horseradish and a buttery crunch, the kind that only exists when bread has been toasted in fat by a chef.
According to Quo Vadis’s chef proprietor, Jeremy Lee, the dish was created out of thrift, using up smoked eel and Poilâne sourdough.
Lee had “a load of smoked eel and Poilâne sourdough to use up” and, well, that’s the whole story.
Perfected by repetition and still presented with panache, that sandwich has been on my mind since 2013, and Lee’s menus for some 30-odd years.
It can be ordered late into the night and pairs wonderfully with a martini.
Author's summary: Restaurants should prioritize consistency and tradition.
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